Lucky Linda

It's been several months since I wrote a blog, however it's by no means because there has been a lack of intrepid activity or because we haven't had an amazing time. Unfortunately it's been due to a lack of technology on two counts. 1. My iPod fried itself due to a power surge in a campsite, and 2. We had no Internet access in New Zealand. Probably the only negative word I have about New Zealand is it's lack of free wifi, but that's hardly a big deal. 

So, with a new iPod in hand and the ability to upload in the near future, I begin again... 

I am currently looking out at the sea at Johanna's beach in yet another campervan. This time in South Australia, as we journey along the Great Ocean Road. But, before I can begin on that story, I feel the need to fill you in on our New Zealand adventure, which without doubt became one of the biggest thought provoking bits of our travels so far.

New Zealand was always on the list of places to visit on our world trip despite the fact I'd spent a month there in 2007 on my own on a kiwi experience bus, and saw quite a bit of it. Simply because I couldn't deny Greg the chance to see it, and I knew that seeing it via campervan with him would be a totally different experience.

Unfortunately our first day offered up a bit of a curve ball. After picking up our van, which went very smoothly and was exactly what it said on the tin, we located a friendly dentist and made our way into Auckland. My worst fears were realised when I walked out an hour later after a temporary root canal on my crown and an appointment for the next morning to have my impacted wisdom tooth removed. Needless to say I got through it with the help of Queen's greatest hits, Greg and chocolate ice-cream (which without a freezer became chocolate mousse). It wasn't a happy week, from the moment the anesthetic wore off I was in agony, with seemingly nothing to subside it i was in a relentless world of pain. When you don't have the tv, a sofa, your mum, the food you want and a comfy bed, I have to say I did feel a bit sorry for myself. 

At least there was a bit of a silver lining as literally for the first 10 days it did not stop raining. So much so that they had full on evacuation due to flooding and landslides in the south island. To be honest I didn't mind much as I didn't feel like doing any activities with my healing mouth and it was really cosy in Linda especially when it rained and you could here it on the roof. It didn't stop us seeing places though, we had a tight schedule to make sure we did everything we wanted to in the north island before our pre-booked ferry to south island. We stayed in some pretty cool campsites along route, nearly all were the Department of Conservation sites with nothing more than a drop toilet. We only stopped at mini kid crazy holiday park places to get a shower when we absolutely had to, and we found some really nice private quieter family run places the rest of the time. During this part of the trip the most memorable night was right on the beach up the east coast of northland, where the open beaches get battered with torrential wind and rain in bad weather. The bad weather for us made for a beautiful sight of deserted white sand beach, and despite getting soaked we battled the wind and driving rain to walk along it. That night nestled just behind a helpless dune we succumbed to the worst of it. We didn't sleep a wink worrying we might tip over, plus the sound of being stoned to death sheltering under a flimsy tin roof. We refreshed ourselves in the rain the next morning though with a cold water outdoor shower, which I have to say was amazing! 

The few weeks before Christmas fly by in a haze of beautiful scenery through the north peninsular to cape Reigna, the pretty beach resort of Paihia in the bay of islands, the beautiful rugged white sand beaches and coves of the Coramandel and down to the moon like landscape of the Tongariro national park and mount doom... All in a fuzzy world of liquid food and a lisp. By this point we had already driven over 1000km and we were both struck by just how beautiful New Zealand is already, and not just the landscape but the people. There were several occasions when we were delayed just because we'd answered a shop keepers question about where we are from... They then were dying to know if we liked NZ and gave us tips on where to go. Everyone wants to help and give you advice, its so different to England! Well London anyway.

However in this land of friendly, smiley people we had a fright one day in our first few weeks, that maybe showed another darker side to these people. Then again maybe ive seen too many films.... 

We were on our way to the Kauri forest on the west coast that we had a jeepers creepers moment and nearly shit ourselves at what at the time felt like the opening scenes of a horror/ murder film. Needless to say we escaped.... I'll explain. 

Our Van, from lucky rentals who we lovingly named 'linda' was a Toyota hiace 1999 so she'd seen a few rides in her time, but was game for more. However we were told to watch out on rough gravel roads. On this journey to the forest we had made the decision to take a short cut that would cut 50km off our 3.5hr journey. About 20km into this road it started getting a little rough and we also realised we had less than 1/4 tank, and Linda guzzles diesel. We typed nearest petrol station into the gps and were concerned to find out it was 65km away! Having a panic we decided to pull into a side lane up to a farm, the first sign of human life for at least 40 mins and take a look at the map and whether we should turn back. We decided there was nothing for it but to keep going and fingers crossed we would make it to the petrol station.... But Linda was dead! She wouldn't even turn over. To paint the picture we were in the middle to nowhere, it was 6pm, farmland and forests as far as the eye could see. Greg pulled his mobile out to call the AA, as the rental company had closed, but he had no signal. So reluctantly, we locked Linda up, and started up the lane as to try to get to higher ground. After 15 mins of walking we saw in the distance a farm gate, and next to it a giant 9ft stone head, like that on Easter island, it was so fucking spooky. At this point it started to drizzle and the light was fading. Our mobiles ping to life and we try the AA number 'ding ding the number you have dialed is not recognised' agh! Now we decided our only choice was to make it up to the farm cottages we can see in the top of the hill. As we approach the building I jump out my skin as a guard dog comes out barking, eventually he calms down and we approach the house but no-one seems to be in, so I let Greg go over to the other building to check it out. He peers through the window and is struck by how grim it is... A stained mattress in in the living room with broken children's toys lying around. We retreat back down the path in a hurry, talking about what options we have... We have food and shelter but no petrol and no idea where the next sign of human life would be. We jump back into the van panicking, shitting ourselves. I just give it one more try and she starts! Good old Linda is back from the dead in our time of need! Thank god, we manage to get through the next 60k of gravel road on petrol fumes, there was not a sausage in between but hills and farm land. I dread to think what would have become of us had Linda not pulled through... Wolf creek springs to mind.

Finally we arrive in the gorgeous 1930's town of Napier just before Christmas. After a walk round we made our way up the road to Hawkes Bay and our b&b for Christmas. It's a gorgeous mansion with a pool and tennis courts. Basically a rich English expat family with too many bedrooms decide to rent out a few. We felt like we had it to ourselves as there was only one other old English couple. They all made us feel at home, with presents on Christmas day over the best and most extensive breakfast I've ever had! Christmas day was a beautiful 28degrees, and after a walk over the hills which were like something out of the hobbit, we went back and made the most of living in luxury with games of tennis washed down with champagne. We were allowed to use their BBQ and cooked ourselves a feast of prawns, BBQ chicken wrapped in bacon and mince pies and custard. We had a great day, which lasted long into the evening playing charades and snooker. It didn't really feel like Christmas though and we missed our family a lot and just had to be content with each other and skype. We certainly made the most of it being Christmas though splashing out on the b&b and great food, loads of booze and even  $20 on each other for stockings. 

After 3 days we had to squeeze back into reality and Linda. We had a tight schedule to make it to Christchurch to pick up Illing, Gregs school mate, and get to Janes for NYE. We drove straight down to Wellington where the rain started again and over on the ferry to Picton. We stopped in Kaikora in a free field with the worst long drop I have ever smelt, where the poo particles actually stuck to your clothes and followed you back to the van! We had plans for Kaikora but decided to wait till we passed again on our way back to Christchurch. 

The next day we picked up Illing, it was so good and also weird to see a familiar face, and Greg was really excited. Illing was on a whirl wind world trip and we wanted to show him a good time in the 5 days he spent with us. The first night was spent in the non descript town of Ashburton on the way to Jane's hired country lodge. It was an experience in itself as Illing slept on a plywood shelf 2 foot above our heads in the hitop van. They hadn't supplied us the foam mattress so it was a hard but hilarious night, wondering if he was going to collapse on us at any point... 

We arrived in the cute little town of Geraldine the next day and topped up on a couple of beers before getting to janes place. Mainly I think because the boys were a bit wary of going to some nye party where they didn't know anyone, and I believe they felt it might not be that much fun.... Needless to say, by the 2nd January they couldn't believe what an amazing time they had had. For me it is up there as one of the best ever. I'm going to bullet point the highlights (in no particular order) or else I'd be here all night:

- luxury forest lodge, and the evenings were cool enough for a roaring log fire
- chavs fancy dress theme
- Illing getting naked (a highlight for some, but a story you'll have to hear from the horse's mouth)
- welcoming down to earth funny people
- 5:1 girls to boys (an Illing highlight)
- steak, bacon, sausages, fresh eggs and homemade bread for breakfast
- impromtu rounders
- a hot tub
- an invitation to go and stay on one of NZ's biggest stations (massive farm), 100k acres, 40k sheep... But more about that later

It was also Jane's 30th so it made it even more of an occasion. And for me it was so great to see a good friend half way into our travels, and to celebrate with at least 1 of my peers' 30th birthdays. It was so much fun, and the weather was gorgeous on new years day, unfortunately I felt like a bag of shit but can't remember a new years day when I haven't! 

We got straight back on the road, eager to show Illing some of NZ's glorious scenery. He wasn't disappointed when we hit lake Tekapo, the ice blue glacier lake, and the sun being out made it even more dramatic. We then headed on up to Mount Cook, when after a bit of a trek we were rewarded by an amazing view of Mount Cook, and some of the surrounding glaciers. We spent another fun night roughing it in a DoC campsite with a drop toilet to give Illing the full picture, and he wasn't shy. We headed straight down to Queenstown the next day, bar a quick stop at aj hacket bungy where I tried my hardest to get Greg to man up, but to no avail... We found a cool little campsite and made our way into town to hunt out an Indian, for what would be our first meal outside of Linda. 

We picked out a nice little place after leaving no Indian stone unturned and agreed to get on it the very next evening after a few pints on the lake front. Next day after said pints, about 9pm we scuttled on down to the Indian only to find it had closed and a ambiguous open 12pm till late sign. Late my arse, I'm sure you can imagine how much we were looking forward to this. No late night or even mid evening curries in Queenstown the so called party capital of NZ. We hurried down to our 2nd choice only to be told kitchen closed! Luckily whilst Illing stayed to give the manager some tips on running an Indian, we managed to find one still open, and finally got our reward, and it was bloody good after tuna pasta for a month. We also had our fill during our 2 night stay from the infamous Fergburger bakery on some of their steak and cheese pies, which were incredible. After a few gorgeous sunset beers, mini golf, and beating both boys at pool we sadly had to say goodbye to Illing, and stuck him on a bus back to Christchurch. It was short but hilarious and sweet. 

Greg, linda and I were left to discover the rest of the south island. ....