Three Musketeers

So Greg, Linda and I were the three musketeers once again. And we set out down the Milford road to the famous sounds, which are actually misnamed and should be fiords. It doesn't have quite the same ring to it though. Ice/ water it's the same thing really. 

After a night in a field pit stop in Te Anau I was crossing everything to get better weather for our boat trip into the sounds past Mitre Peak than my last visit here 5 years ago. Evidently I didn't cross enough and as we approached the weather got progressively worse, with overcast drizzle. We did see some cheeky keas and the photogenic mirror lakes. The boat trip was good, but unfortunately not very photogenic, so once again we had to look at postcards to see what it could look like. 

After another night in the same field, we made our way to Wanaka. We passed the little town of Richmond and stopped at the lake to soak up the afternoon sun, amazing view of the devils staircase, and spectacular clear lake. It appeared most of the residents of this little town were doing the same. Behind us at one of the lake front houses it seemed like there was a gathering of neighbors having an impromptu BBQ, as outsiders this is what it seems most kiwis do at any time, no occasion required. I wouldn't have been surprised either if they had spotted us, inviting us to join. That's how cool these people are. We stopped on the way out at another of NZ immaculate public toilets (just a minor but indispensable point for a traveller is how clean everything is in NZ including the public facilities) I was waiting in the van when suddenly a WWII siren went off above my head. Within a matter of minutes Utes and cars were pulling up and men jumped out and within another minute a fire engine was pulling out with said men inside. Turns out these are all voluntary firemen, on call 24hrs a day 7 days a week. There is no national fire service, or country first aid or ambulance service for that matter. All these people are voluntary. And many I'd imagine had been at the BBQ we'd seen. That's how dedicated these people are to community. Another admirable quality of NZ and it's residents.

 I was looking forward to Wanaka because I had really enjoyed it last time I was there, but also because I really needed a shower, and we had agreed to splash out on a campsite! 
Unfortunately Wanaka has few campsites, all over priced and cramped, after driving out of one and demanding a refund after being directed to squeeze between 2 tents  that looked as established as those on gypsy weddings, we finally found a better option, despite it being more like a very poor mans butlins, with a million kids cycling round constantly ringing their bells. We parked up and got straight out of there for a stroll onto town. What is it about campsites that makes them so cringeworthy, even the smarter less run down ones still remind me of hi-di-hi. The best one we stayed at was near taupo, with it's own thermal spring spa, and immaculate facilities. I'd much rather a remote field, a long drop and a cold shower any day! Did you ever think you'd hear me say that?

So anyway last time I was in Wanaka the kiwi experience driver told me that if I went down to the pier at the lake and threw in some bread, I might be lucky enough to see some dolphins. Ok I admit to being gullible on this occasion, and I ended up trying to dodge the shit from all the seagulls that were lapping up the 12 fresh rolls I'd bought from the supermarket to feed the dolphins.... I tried to make myself feel better by trying this trick on Greg, but he just said "how the fuck would there be dolphins in a lake". I give up.

Wanaka was pretty, and we treated ourselves to fish and chips on the beach. But by 9pm it was past our bedtime so we headed back. I trotted off to the shower block in my short pjs, a towel and a tooth brush, only to return to see a topless Greg locked out of Linda, keys inside. By this point it was 10pm dark, silent and cold. I told Greg there was nothing for it than to ring the emergency night bell at reception, but he was determined he could break in himself. So I decided to sit on the toilet in the relative warmth of the toilet block while he tried to work it out. When I returned 20 mins later there was a weathered, greased up man with a clothes hanger showing Greg how it's done, it was actually very easy when you know how! Greg had submitted and rung the night bell.

We were really looking forward to this next bit, but also not sure what to expect. We couldn't pass up the invitation to spend the weekend on Otematata station with Pip from NYE and my friend Jane. We backtracked a little to arrive at the station which later we realized included the whole village itself, in 200,000 acres, plus a river and the huge Benamore dam. Pips cottage, just one of the many homes on the station, where she lived with her boyfriend Joe, who's parents owned the station, was a cute place. The weather was spectacular and the next morning Pip gave us a tour. We went to the original homestead used back in the early 1900's, it was derelict but you could see the beautiful original range, dressers, and fireplaces. We stopped at the new homestead to collect fresh eggs, then went to the sheering shed, where for 8 weeks a year the chaos of shearing all 40k sheep happens, all of which have been heli and horse mustered in from the sprawling land. We met the horses which can roam wherever they like and the 8 working dogs in their kennels, and fed the pigs. Pip also showed us the tractor graveyard where we got some cool photos. After all that it was decided we needed a rest so we went up to the homestead to chill out next to the pool, it was amazing chilling out in luxury with spectacular views. We finished the day with a spot of fishing, which was unsuccessful but fun. We had an amazing time, and Pip was a great host. But the next day we were back on our way headed for the west coast glaciers.

We wizzed through the glaciers, taking walks up as far as you could get to them. I had done a full day hike up Franz Josef and sky dived over Fox and Greg felt it was too expensive, plus the whether was bad. By the time we reached Greymouth, the infamous west coast weather had really hit. We stayed in a little campsite in Rapoe literally on the beach, bar a little hedge. We got battered and blown by the wind and rain, and even got up in the night worried we might be washed away. The next day we had to take the inland road missing out on the coast road as we were being blown all over the place and couldn't see out the window for the relentless sheets of rain. We reached the Nelson lakes and the weather cheered up. As beautiful as they are they pack a punch as soon as you step outside the van, in the form of the ferocious female sandfly. We had a nightmare with them all around NZ, you can feel them biting at you insatiably and the bites are so itchy and last for weeks. It drove us round the bend. 

Over the next week or so we drove up to farewell spit and all around Golden Bay, spending a day or two at different beaches, making the most of the amazing weather. From deserted squeeky white silicon sand as far as you can see at wakiki, to packed out golden bays at kieteriteri. It was like a holiday within our travels. We did the same and went to the beach in Nelson which also had a lovely town. But after all that sunbathing we decided it was time for some vino. We drove past Picton via Queen Charlotte drive and down to Blenheim and the little town of Renwick. Here we hired bikes, and spent the whole day going from winery to winery as we had done in Mendoza in Argentina and a little in Chile. It was a fantastic day tasting Marlborough's finest (my favorite being Cloudy Bay of course) and all the vinyards were free flowing, if you lived there you could get pissed all the time for free! it was a beautiful place too unlike the Maipu valley in Argentina which was just dusty and dirty. To top it off we stayed in what became my favorite campsite, which was actually a hostel run by a little old couple who were very sweet.

So onward to our penultimate destination, Kiakoura for the second time. Again this was another place where I had already done the swimming with dolphins thing, and Greg would never do that, so we tossed between whale watching and deep sea fishing. Well the thought of being stuck on a crowded boat didn't seem appealing, So we opted for the fishing. We had both done limited/ no fishing before so we weren't sure what to expect. It was brilliant!! 

We had paid for just a 2 hour trip and despite the two of us pulling in a load of blue cod and perch at 90 meters we couldn't say the same for the other 4 Japanese passengers. The sea was like glass and we were only 5 mins from the coast when the vomiting started, 10 minutes into the trip and one was saying please can we turn back. I said no way, you should have taken a pill. 20 minutes into the trip and they were saying please sir we will pay you please can we go back. By this point we ignored them, we had been really looking forward to this, plus wouldn't get the chance again, is that cruel? Well as it turns out the skipper saw we had loved it and invited us out the next day with his mate and 'a few beers' to go and find a honey pot. And that's exactly what we did. 7 hours later and at a depth of 240meters I was pulling out 50lb groaper, barracuda and a feisty 60lb shark! It was so exciting, and I seemed to be quite good at it too which always helps.

With our little fridge packed full of fillets and live cray we set out to Christchurch to spend a couple of days with Jane and Ray. Unfortunately after our bountiful day fishing we had set off a bit late and miss judged our petrol and ended up having to camp out in a random petrol station till it re-opened in the morning. 

In our 2 days at Jane's we attacked the fish, smoking, frying, boiling and baking. All of which were delicious.
Jane and ray took us on a tour of the dilapidated CBD, and also the temporary rejuvenation using shipping containers to replace some of the shops and cafes. It was such a sad but inspiring scene, especially after seeing how beautiful Christchurch was last time I was there. It was inspiring the way a lot of people pulled through the trauma of liquefaction devastation, the loss of their homes, workplace, and in some cases friends and family. Some people have moved elsewhere, but the majority have stuck to their guns and picked themselves up, very admirably. It was great to spend our last couple of days with Jane and Ray. 

The day finally came to say goodbye to Linda and catch our flight to Australia. Despite looking forward to Oz and to meet Gregs best mate and get to know their little family we were extremely sad to say good bye to New Zealand. 

We had such an amazing time, and it is such a wonderful place, with people living great lives, which reflects in how nice they are. We officially love New Zealand, coming here a second time has just reconfirmed my feelings.