It wouldn't be fair to say that being asked this between 9-13 times walking 300 yards up the hill to San Blas was the most memorable thing about Cusco, but it did start to really grate after 8 days, we got round it by betting each other how many times we would hear it. I haven't found it anywhere else in Peru, I assume it's because of the inca trail gringos who need one when they get back to cusco, yet another reminder of our failed trek.
When we first arrived in cusco I was really impressed with it's colonial buildings, cobbled streets, cute cafes and friendly people. The main square - Plaza del Armas is surrounded by a monastery and church and balconies above shops which house restaurants and cafes. It's nice, and was a good change from Arequipa which was more cosmopolitan.
You can see why the locals wear the stuff they flog to tourists as it's freezing, and within a day I had bought my matching lama mittens and leg warmers. We also had quite a bit of rain, waking with crashes of thunder. I loved it as I enjoy England in the winter, as long as you havent just straightened your hair or wearing some new highheels, which, despite bringing with me you will be surprised to hear havent left the backpack! What makes it even more cosy is the smell of woodsmoke in the afternoon as the cafes, restaurants and locals light their fires ready for the cold night ahead. Due again to the altitude which is higher than Arequipa, at 3300meters. We've now pretty much acclimatised but the truck load of annoying Americans who seem to just fly in for a weeks holiday to get the train to machu picchu and stay and eat in places which have no authenticity whatsoever, all seem to freak at the altitude. Plus, and sorry to stereotype but they stand out like a sore thumb, they absolutely love getting dolled up in the worst alpaca knits you could possibly hunt down. Although I must say it's allowed for hours of amusement for us. One in particular who was in the train station coming back from machu picchu had an ankle length poncho made from a corduroy rug material, on top of a all in one purple Lycra cat suit, 5 cm long fake glittered nails, and a dirty faded khaki baseball cap....she was 50. Maybe she got a tip off for the catwalks next season.
We spent the days wandering the streets, opting out of seeing ruins and churches which are expensive and we felt wouldn't be a patch on Machu Picchu. Plus we didn't fancy another guided coach tour, although no doubt it would have given Greg lots of fuel about annoying fellow tourists to blog about. You can walk up painfully steep cobbled streets to the top of the artistic part of the city, San Blas, which had amazing views of the city, plus you get local artists trying to sell their creations for 1 sole - 21p. But we decided Greg could do a better job, as most of them seemed to have exactly the same style.
We managed to meet up with Kate and Stef on our last day in cusco, by bumping into each other on the street, it seems fate makes our paths cross! we were pleased of the company and normal situation as we had both been moping around the last few days. We sat for hours over coca tea catching up, and then went for dinner and a few drinks in a cosy wood fired bar. It was great to see them although made us realise they had achieved quite a bit and had some stories to tell, whist we had been out of the race for a week. So with that shit literally behind us its time to get back on it..... I am currently sitting on a 7 hour bus ride to Puno and lake titicaca with it's floating reed islands which is even higher, god I'm getting a bit sick of this altitude thing! We are itching for a change so hopefully it will be a good move.
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